Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 34
16m. The once heathery slab that forms the back of the recess is followed directly and is worryingly difficult to protect, especially on the upper wall. The groove on the left is Diff.
Not that hard but worryingly difficult to protect
Much better than it looks (and cleaner than it sounds in the Staffordshire grit guide). Unfortunatly unprotected on the second and final walls so requires a steady head.
If this is the one I thought it was then I could only wrangle in a solitary friend at about 6m due to vegetation and soil in all the cracks.
Erm, actually, it's not the one I was thinking of. Pro is definitely worryign though. (and this time I know which one I'm on about)
Great place for a first lead climb.
The route I took was the VD marked in the Staffordshire grit guide, and lies between the Diff and the Severe on the topo on here. It's a nice route, and the bold move above the ledge at half height makes it all the more satisfying!
I sort of did a variation to the routes shown on the topo. Up to the wide ledge, then finished up the right arete to the top of a little pinnacle. Lovely rock, nice friction (not polished). I'm sure there would have been gear, if I'd taken a rope with me.