Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 91
20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though not especially technical. Climb the wall to a thread then traverse the flake to its end and make a couple of strenuous pulls on less generous holds to reach easy ground. All very antipodean.
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Whats this about a flake snapping off? Someone told me it's now E3/4...
no chance its a jug fest all the way
It does look like a section of the flake has come away, but Mark S is right, good holds all the way.
Found the start the hardest bit!Hard move from a sloper to a good ledge.After that youv'e just gotta grit your teeth and keep going.Everythings positive so just thug it.
Watch out placing gear in the flakes, it moves an awful lot just climbing through it. Cams may just damage it beyond hope. The first bit of flake has come away, have a pic from 89 and one from 02 and its gone.
Does anybody think that a friend placed at the end of the flake will hold? I didn't place this as I was convinced that the flake would snap and I'd have to contend with large falling pieces of rock as well as falling onto the slab.
Found the start really hard. Would you deck out if fell going for thread break? I reckon you would!!!!!
Only slightly harder than the Sloth. Place gear from the break, have a breather then climbing the roof only takes 10 seconds.
Totally agree, Davros. This is the Sloth's big brother, and not all that much harder. Good juggy holds, just keeping going and you'll find something!
Found this lots harder than the sloth/FBD took me a few attempts to get the last jug!
I climbed the superb roof left of this late last year at about E3 5c. I have named it CAN YOU SEE WHAT IT IS YET? You can place a bit of gear on the right before launching out across the roof. It is gained via the short arete below. It was done on sight, somthing rather new to me in recent years, in fact in most of my new routing life!
The roof is easy, certainly NOT BOLD and barely E1. In fact, Flying Buttress Direct is a much harder onsight. The crux of the route is the first three moves up the slab which is a boulder problem above a dodgy landing. Why then does the description not reflect this?