Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 91
12m. Sustained but well-protected climbing up the crack, with a flaky exit to the right or a good steep and juggy finish up the tower above and left (VS 4c). Photo page 33.
What am I voting for...The crack is HS 4b and the left-hand finish is VS at least?
The left hand tower is the better and more consistent finish; outrageously steep but on good jugs. Probably VS 4c but over very quickly and well-protected with cams so not high in the grade. The initial crack is not much easier IMHO but has even better pro.
a very fine climb indeed. my first HS lead. scott.
The crack is a good HS 4b and the left tower a well protected low in the grade VS 4c. However, you get funny looks from walkers on the top when grunting up the tower as it's easy to walk round the side!
I exited diagonally left below the tower, via a short exposed section on blocks. This feels like the most sensible route, as the tower is so artificial, and the right hand exit a bit muddy and unpleasant. The crack itself has 1 move of 4b on it, the rest is 4a, as are the finishing moves out left. Low in the grade for HS overall, as protection is plentiful throughout. 2 stars with this exit.