VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Wipers < Central Massive  |  Quick Brew > Tealeaf Crack >>

12m. Climb the roof crack strenuously the amble to the top. Not in current guidebook.
FA. Joe Brown 1954


Repeated this route recently (Sept'01). Where you used to get a solid finger jam on the lip of the overhang you can now only layaway. Seems that the base of crack has suffered some damage from runner placements. I would argue that the crux move is now 4c.
Al.Smith - 07/Mar/02

Still only 4b unles you fill the slot with a cam and have to use something else for your hands...certainly 4c then!
Steve C - 30/Jul/02

Have to admit I filled the slot with a cam
Al.Smith - 22/Oct/02

Yes, this route is definitely getting less pleasant as the protection gets less convincing. The crucial slot now takes a sideways number 10 rock - and I'm sure it took an 8 or a 9 a few years back.
Alan - 22/Oct/02

The gear is now worse. I managed 2 placements in the whole route. Something on the side wall below the overhang and then something about 20ft up.
Good route though
Graham Taylor - 13/Jul/04

The gear is ok, A friend will go directly under the roof at the back, once over the roof it is easy anyway and quite hard to fall off and there is gear too
the truth - 13/Jul/04

Why does this indifferent route get two stars in the "definitive" guide?
Chris Craggs - 15/May/05

2 stars?? - it's got 2 moves and the rest is a stroll. It's not worth one.
pooh - 30/May/05

Really enjoyed this, although probably because I already knew it was a one move wonder before I started. Filled the slot with a cam, but eventually discovered there was a crimp above it within reach, and prefer crimps to layaways anyway.
cider nut - 24/Jul/05

Finally managed it having backed off too many times to remember. Once I had the nerve not to place the gear above the overhang it was quite straightforward.

No gear placement under the roof at the back - it looks like the rock's broken fairly recently, and a Camalot .4 was too small, a .5 too big.

Above the overhang it's much easier but not well protected which sustained the interest for me. A finish up the tower to the left makes for an exciting extension!

Still not a 2 star route though.
Simon Caldwell - 01/Oct/07

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