Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 76
18m. Low in the grade but serious and with a bold finale. Once thought "only suitable for married men and others accustomed to taking risks". Climb the slab to the left edge of the overhang; move up then trend back right crossing the side-wall on polished holds to the airy arete and a finish up a short crack. It is also possible to climb the side-wall direct until an awkward move reaches holds and gear at a more consistent HVS.
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To be noted is the excellent variation on the finish at (H)VS 4c ish: From the ledge take the wall direct keeping slightly to the left. A bold move leads to good holds and reasonable protections. A HVS with an E2 feeling.
Badly protected. You have to have EXACTLY the right gear with you, otherwise it's a serious solo! Top v good - better and harder than top pitch of Hollybush Crack.(slightly reminiscent of, but with much smaller holds)
I got 2 bits of gear in but I think they'd have come out if the wind had blown too hard. With hindsight a detour into the gully to place gear would have been useful to prevent death in the event of a fall. There's no way I'll vote for HVS as I've never led one, so it's got to be top end VS 4b :-)
I tried the gully protection approach and nearly went too high to finish - its best to use the rocks by the large pedestal and get back across to the edge of the buttress. nice finish once you're up there though.
The climbing isn't hard for VS it's just very bold. You can get one good nut in at the start of the traverse. Historically it was 2 pitches with your belayer in the groove to the left before the traverse, no safer but at least you wouldn't crush your belayer on the way down!
Rather than completely avoiding the overhang, if you step across to it you can get a friend in, then pull back across to to the left and up. 4c but protected.
Try to stay high and left after the fist mantel: there are runners and better holds and you can check out where the direct shoots off. Standard VS 4b climbing if done this way.
Very green, the direct appeared to be even more slimey so I took the original line. Protection was poor until I reached a perfect nut about four moves from the right edge of the face, but by then it's pretty much in the bag anyway. Not difficult, but not one to underestimate either.