Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 29
A mini-expedition, devious and with some excellent climbing. 1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the base of a short ramp. Exit rightwards from the top of this to join Black and Tans which is followed to its stance. 2) 4b, 6m. Climb out left then up the short rib to a small stance. Pull onto the right edge of the wall above and traverse left (gripping) to climb the exposed rounded rib.
good hold over the first small roof and a nice rock over,its all but done then
Not climbed this, but acording to other guides (which split it into 3 pitches) the top bit is 5b.
As I recall, the top bit is 5b - and scary with it. Steadiness required.
Definite typo no doubt arisng from the 3 pitch description where the middle pitch is 4b and top pitch is 5b. There is a nervy move to reach and use the hand rail at the top of the first pitch with only rp type protection. Top pitch a bit contrived but still good.
Good route. Best done in three mini-pitches. Rockfax description does omit to say that 3rd pitch is a 12m 5b. Both 1st & 3rd pitches are bold - the former with a hard final move, protected only by a small RP; the latter on pockets and rounded bulges.
I haven't done many E2's so I can't comment if this was a hard one or not (see voting), but it's an awsome route either way; well worth a try if your climbing around the grade.