Black and Tans Top 50

3 Stars
 S 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Hanging Around < Ruby Tuesday  |  Black Velvet > Diamond Wednesday >>


A classic expedition weaving up the impressive buttress. 1) 4a, 14m. Climb Hollybush Gully and move out left to climb a groove to its top, step left across the side-wall then mantelshelf onto a small stance. 2) 4a, 16m. Continue up the groove then step left and tackle the bulges by a trio of awkward, and poorly-protected semi-mantelshelves, mild but bold. It is also possible to start up Jeffcoat's Chimney then follow ledges rightwards via a long traverse to the base of the groove, at the same grade.
FA. Fed Pigott 1922

USER COMMENTS

One of the best route at this grade on gritstone. Superb exposure near the top.
El Greyo - 20/Sep/02

I think the first pitch description should read 'follow ledges leftwards' rather than rightwards after the initial chimney with the hollybush in it
MattG - 14/Apr/03

The description as given appears to be describing the original lefthand start, rather than the usual righthand start. It's hard to say though since the chimneys mentioned aren't named. I assume the "chimney on the left" is Jeffcoat's Chimney and the "chimney on the right" is Hollybush Crack.
Simon Caldwell - 14/Apr/03

VDiff in my opinion. No discernable crux and the top bold section is about Diff technicaly. Easier than Black Velvet but still a great adventure for a beginner.
Jamie B - 03/May/03

Great route. Not hard but a great and varied way to spend an hour. Don't forget to extend some runners otherwise the rope drag is the crux!
Richard Bradley - 26/Jun/03

a cracking route that fully deserves its 3 star grade & is well worth a go if you have'nt done it before! The second pitch is akward & more about nerve than technical ability due to the lack of points for protection on the mantleshelfs. I only found two when I first led it. If you spot a place for a runner, use it, you may not find another untill you reach the belay point at the top. Dont forget to have some friends handy!
Steve L - 11/Oct/04

I remember the first time i did this route was in a single pitch which turned out to be pretty scary but fun at the top with all the rope drag! definitely 3 star enjoyable. Fun beginner climb. Have taken a couple beginners up it and they loved it
Mickmcmanners - 22/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 134
    hard HS 0 of 46
    HS 0 of 46
    easy HS 1 of 46
    hard S 3 of 46
    S 39 of 46
    easy S 3 of 46
    hard HVD 0 of 46
    HVD 0 of 46
    easy HVD 0 of 46
    hard 4b 0 of 43
    4b 0 of 43
    easy 4b 0 of 43
    hard 4a 3 of 43
    4a 27 of 43
    easy 4a 13 of 43
    hard 3c 0 of 43
    3c 0 of 43
    easy 3c 0 of 43
    3 Stars 37 of 45
    2 Stars 4 of 45
    1 Star 4 of 45
    0 Stars 0 of 45
    Bag of ..... 0 of 45

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