Hollybush Crack

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Black Velvet < Diamond Wednesday  |  Technical Slab > Gilted >>

26m. Bridge up the wide lower section of the gully until it is possible to transfer into the crack to the right. Continue up this, passing a possible constricted stance, to the left-hand end of the great roof. Pull over the bulge then either finish easily, or if you are up to it, climb as far as a thread, descend a couple of moves and shuffle rightwards on rounded holds out into space to the final exposed (and thankfully easy) rib.


Really not a particularly appealing route. The top traverse by far the best part, and should be coupled with Technical Slab, not this nasty crack/slot.
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

I'm looking forward to seeing a topo. The old BMC guide is useless in this respect - no line is shown for this route, and once I got above the Hollybush, I had no idea where it went, based on the description...
Nick Smith - 17/Apr/03

Thought it was excellent and found route finding easy. The mid point stance makes the route, although it could possibly be done in one long pitch.
Kev - 30/May/03

The topo doesn't help, it shows it going straight through the holly!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Oct/03

Is the route supposed to start to the left of the holly (as in the description) or to the right (as in the topo)? Or perhaps through the middle...
Simon Caldwell - 01/Oct/07

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 36
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