Technical Slab

2 Stars
 HS 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Diamond Wednesday < Hollybush Crack  |  Gilted > Painted Rumour >>

24m. Despite the name, not very technical but bold in its central section. Climb straight up the slab (harder for the short and unprotected where it matters) until you join the traverse of Pedestal Route. Finish as for Pedestal Route, or more in keeping, out right as for Hollybush Crack.


Combined with the 'top pitch'/finish of Hollybush Crack, one of the best pitches of its standard in the country. Wonderful. Maybe HS 4b
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

Well protected throughout if you've got a good selection of friends. I'd say S 4a with modern gear. And agree with Gordon, the right hand 'Hollybush Crack' finish is far better and more in keeping with the rest of the route. Unprotected though, VS 4b.
Simon Caldwell - 14/Apr/03

A superb solo, one of the best routes on grit.
Dave - 15/Apr/03

I reckon it's only 4b for the short. HS 4a is bang on.
Jamie B - 03/May/03

Agree with Gordon - you can't get more fun than this without it being illegal !
Chris the Tall - 15/Aug/03

Had a full rack of friends and couldn't find anything from about 4m to about 10m!! Dunno where you found it Simon! Awesome route though - definitely worth three stars imho!
Jono - 14/Oct/03

Agree the Neb Finsih is the best bit, although also considerably harder than the rest of the route and felt very bold. The slab is quite bold but on positive holds so feels ok.
Si dH - 23/May/05

Beware! BrianT and JCT had sex at the top of this!
willhunt - 23/May/06

You can get pro on the bottom bit by clipping two opposed nuts together in the pockets. Maybe 4b for the short
Iain Thow - 19/Mar/07

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 126
    hard VS 0 of 42
    VS 0 of 42
    easy VS 2 of 42
    hard HS 2 of 42
    HS 34 of 42
    easy HS 3 of 42
    hard1 of 42
    0 of 42
    easy0 of 42
    hard 4b 0 of 42
    4b 0 of 42
    easy 4b 4 of 42
    hard 4a 7 of 42
    4a 28 of 42
    easy 4a 2 of 42
    hard 3c 1 of 42
    3c 0 of 42
    easy 3c 0 of 42
    3 Stars 26 of 42
    2 Stars 12 of 42
    1 Star 4 of 42
    0 Stars 0 of 42
    Bag of ..... 0 of 42

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.