Central Route

2 Stars
Fluttery
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Loculus Lie < The Sloth  |  Right Route > Right Route Right >>


16m. The centre of the poorly-protected (medium Friends) slab has delicate and unprotected moves at 10m (harder for the short) before it eases off. Traverse right to a stance on the crest of the buttress and walk off, or finish as for the next route.

USER COMMENTS

Unprotected move midway would be nastily more difficult for the very short (just ok at my 5,3). Only gear on the slab is several good placements for friends 2 or 2.5. Lovely bold climbing; thoroughly recommended.
sarah - 08/Apr/02

The protection is not too bad with medium and small cams. Can be serious for the second if the leader forgets a runner for the last tricky move up to good holds.
Steve C - 10/Apr/02

Not sure about this HVS - I'm sure it's got some reasonable pro (and Ive soloed it, so it cant be that bad!) Bachelor's Buttress definitely seems both harder and more serious to me.
Gordon Stainforth - 09/Jan/03

I can sort of see where they're coming from, as this is both harder and less well protected than Technical Slab. But no way HVS, otherwise Bachelor's Buttress would have to be E1! VS 4a or VS easy 4b.
Simon Caldwell - 14/Apr/03

Brilliant route, never HVS. Worth doing the extra finish traversing left over the lip.
Dave - 15/Apr/03

MVS/VS 4a. Never 4b.
Andy Hobson - 23/Dec/05

is there a differance between 4a and 4b anyway?
mark s - 26/Dec/05

errr obiously not, but there is obviously a difference between 6b and 6c right?!!!
CurlyStevo - 04/Feb/06

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 96
    hard HVS 0 of 18
    HVS 0 of 18
    easy HVS 0 of 18
    hard VS 0 of 18
    VS 7 of 18
    easy VS 11 of 18
    hard HS 0 of 18
    HS 0 of 18
    easy HS 0 of 18
    hard 4c 0 of 42
    4c 0 of 42
    easy 4c 1 of 42
    hard 4b 1 of 42
    4b 9 of 42
    easy 4b 9 of 42
    hard 4a 22 of 42
    4a 0 of 42
    easy 4a 0 of 42
    3 Stars 6 of 36
    2 Stars 23 of 36
    1 Star 6 of 36
    0 Stars 1 of 36
    Bag of ..... 0 of 36

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