Crack and Corner Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
 S 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Jelly Roll < Roscoe's Wall/Round Table  |  Babbacombe Lee > Hangman's Crack >>


An exciting expedition up an unlikely line at the grade. 1) 4c, 20m. Climb into the crack with difficulty then follow it to a ledge, before moving left to a block belay. 2) 4a, 18m. Take the wall to a good ledge then the groove to the final imposing overhang. Fortunately this has massive jugs.
FA. Morley Wood 1922

USER COMMENTS

If you can work out the start (just commitment really) then the rest is climbing pleasure with a superb finish.
chris H KOBI - 20/Feb/02

I thought S 4c suited this almost perfectly: really hard to suss out the start and still requires some effort when you do but bomber protection above your head. Given the polish, shorter climbers might say HS 5a.
Steve C - 10/Apr/02

Looks a lovely route but the start is pure evil having been spat out two days in a row.
chris - 22/Jan/03

It's one of my favourite grit Severes - the well-protected hard bit is getting off the deck, the rest is an absolute delight. Keep it at Severe, I'd say.
Stefan Kruger - 06/Feb/03

Failed to leave the ground for the 3rd time on Saturday. I'll get there eventually...
Simon Caldwell - 14/Apr/03

I'd say the crucial starting moves are hard for the grade but since the remainder is straightforeward 4c should stand. The S grade seems appropriate in terms of exposure again because the start is the crux, but you do need spuds to swing over the final overhang. Well protected but use large chocks and friends too keep life simple.
Paul Saunders - 25/Apr/03

an exellent start and finish with some great jug hauling in between.thought the polish made the first foothold obsolete for those with an aversion to skinned shins. try the next one up, a bit harder, but you've got less chance of popping off.
karl - 01/Jun/03

did this years ago. used to be a favourite of mine. remember something about a big hidden pocket in the wide crack below the final overhang.
tim edward - 23/Oct/03

A great route certainly good value for severe. The start is hard 4c/easy 5a followed by a reasonable 4a pitch. The final overhang is more HS teritory.
Woker - 13/Apr/04

I found the start desperate and the finish bold. HS 5a in my book; I've done dozens of VSs that seemed easier too.
mick hawley - 22/Apr/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 83
    hard HS 0 of 22
    HS 0 of 22
    easy HS 13 of 22
    hard S 2 of 22
    S 6 of 22
    easy S 0 of 22
    hard HVD 1 of 22
    HVD 0 of 22
    easy HVD 0 of 22
    hard 5a 0 of 44
    5a 0 of 44
    easy 5a 7 of 44
    hard 4c 12 of 44
    4c 19 of 44
    easy 4c 3 of 44
    hard 4b 3 of 44
    4b 0 of 44
    easy 4b 0 of 44
    3 Stars 15 of 17
    2 Stars 1 of 17
    1 Star 1 of 17
    0 Stars 0 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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