Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 116
12m. A powerful start and a technical groove (pull out right as soon as you can) culminate in an insecure and smeary reach for the top. On the final crucial section, the gear is a little too far away for comfort. Low in the grade though harder for the short.
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Have people always put a Friend in the pocket? Sounds like E4 to lead.
Feels like E5 to lead, ground-up.
One of the best aretes on grit? Once on the slab gear is actually good in the pocket, just don't blow the last move!
A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5.
Superbly technical and committing but, and this is the "interesting" bit...it IS possible to blow the last move, as long as your belayer is good at running away! don't ask how i know, but you only fall off this route once, under any circumstance!
A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short).
I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree!
if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me.
Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same.
3* route without a doubt. All the moves are good and the start is such a contrast.
only seconded this but thought it was excellent climbing. I would imagine its scary to lead. And if your short then placing the friends will be a real ball ache
Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome.
Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two?
I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
Astounding route. That last move is beautiful!
Astounding route. That last move is beautiful.
I actually think this route is over rated as well as over graded. If you want a stunning bold soft touch E5 arete go for High Noon. Thought Ascent of Man was harder than TOTC which I thought was E3, if you decked out you would certainly give your belayer a slap!