Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 46
From the tip of the slab, make a hard friction move to start and then just go. Unprotected but a belayer on the left is sensible!
I thought the last vote sorted all this,it seemed opinion was settled at E2 5b if you don`t belay high on the left. E1 5c means nothing for this route which is 5b but unprotected!! surely this grade suggests well protected 5c climbing!
The fluttery heart symbol might be a clue.
I suspect a long reach is quite useful as well
Dangerously undergraded at E1, there is no easy escape once on the arete. diud strangler the same day and found this just as scary. E2 at least.
Indeed. If Wall end slab direct gets E3 then this should be at least E2!?@
Don`t see whats wrong with the grade... It suggests a low down hard 5c move with easier unprotected 5a climbing once in a dangerous situation..., which (funnily enough) is exactly what it is!
i agree completly with the last comments. no way anything more than e1. 5c is the first moves (safe) then the rest of the route is e1 5a, which shows a dangeous position. just needs explaining in the desciption. thought 2 stars, great buzz without being too hard
I don't agree at all. the first moves aren't 5c, and there's a 5b move high up, which is rather scary, a bit like an e2 5b. Much harder and scarier than Argus (which I think is e1).
This is one of those routes where, if you're cruising at E3, it'll seem like a path. But most E1 leaders would find this v scary, and the upper section can certainly feel 5b when conditions are less than perfect. The grades are partly designed to limit the times someone pushes their grade and ends up hurting themselves, so E2 seems sensible.