Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 39
8m. The elegant arete on its right then left with a bold start to large cams in the break - a breather - then an airy finish.
Elegant, yes, and with a good positive arete to guide you. However, the paucity of protection, until at least 2/3rds up it, plus a less than ideal landing, would make this an E1 at more popular crags.
Oh joy. What a lovely route. Shame the upper section doesn't quite match the lower but it doesn't really matter!
Took a flyer off this last week before the protection was in but luckily managed to jump into a bush, stuck on some decent shoes - Mad Rock Mugens - and breezed it. Soft rubber on this makes all the difference.
Definately needs a fluttery heart symbol - the top moves whilst easy are completely unprotected as are the bottom hard moves which whilst close to the ground are above ankle twisting rocks.
Have to agree this would be E1 at stanage: 5b with that landing isn't typical HVS. Awesome all the same
Fantastic moves to the break and gear (though felt hard for 5b) with an easy but nicely tenuous feeling finish. Joyous climbing - a very fine microroute.
5b with no gear has to be E1 surely. The landing isn't too bad, but falling off the top half would definitely hurt.
What a lovely route! I saw it and had to give it a go. I was actually surprised when I saw that it was only HVS, but when on it this seems fair. The hardest move is the first one then just keep going to the break. The top section is fairly run out though. Not really E1 - it is similar to crescent arete at Stanage.
Hard first few moves, then big gear (cam number 4) and a nice top bit. HVS 5b!