Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 11
16m. Climb the right arete of the buttress on its right-hand side, passing over the perched block to the final wall where spooky moves left into the chimney become imperative. A Direct Finish isVS 4b and a bold Right-hand Finish, via a flake, is HVS 4c.
Nice route, lovely holds up the first few blocks, then watch the ground disappear as you bridge from the 'patio' to get into the chimney.
Don't be tempted by the direct finishes, the move left into the chimney is the best bit.
Reaching the chimney is exciting for the grade, but safe as houses - but the rope drag can end up being a pain. We ended up splitting it into two pitches due to the drag, which turned it into a mini adventure.
Super and varied route. Slab, face, crack and chimney climbing, all in a short route. Brief fear stepping over to chimney, before the good holds were found. Place gear carefully and with long runners, to avoid rope drag.