Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
8m. The neat arete with a powerful start and pleasant above.
S 4b implies rather better protection than you get here.
Maybe 4c for the start, then romping in a lovely position
I tried to lead this on Tues as it looked like a nice line (even though I'm not normally into aretes), and there was somebody on Thrug which I'd hoped to do. I couldn't even get onto the arete though! Surely a steep, off balance move with a bad fall potential and no gear (you can get some in the break but it won't stop you decking) is worthy of more than Severe? You're not high up, but you'd pop off at a funny angle for sure. It's HS in the bmc guide.
Who on earth graded this one? I thought I knew all the Roaches "Hard Severe" sandbags but I'd obviously missed Ogden Arete. The overhanging start is a bit similar to, but harder tham Crew's Arete (5b!) at Fodsham.