Black PigRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 40
Adjacent Routes 8m. The thin crack in the right wall of the chimney deserves its name (and 5c) if you don't use the footholds behind you! USER COMMENTS
It deserves it's name if you don't use the footholds on the arete behind. The top few moves are great fun though.
A delightful line which requires some thought if you are to avoid bridging on the arete
The old definitive guide describes the route as using the footholds on the left in order to get started. When did they become 'forbidden'?
I think the holds on the wall behind must be "in" at the grade. Which is still a stiff 4c. Although pro does not look promising from below (the crack appearing to be "blind"), it does in fact come to hand at precisely the right moment(s) - in fact well protected. Some very nice lay-away moves. Most enjoyable, safe, technical and memorable climbing.
An unsatisfactory and spoilt line graded at 5c (according to BMC guide) if you don't use the holds behind you. Best investing your time and effort in a 3* 5c route like San Melas
...p.s. probably only deserves the * if you DO use the holds behind you because of the varied climbing and interesting moves, especially leaving the bridging positions. |