Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 149
10m. The centre of the buttress leads over an overhang to another that caps the wall, and is cleaved by an excellent flake. Finish up this with gusto. A classic E1 experience.
Mm...what a route. Best done on a hot sunny day with your shirt off, so all the crowds of top-ropers and ramblers can marvel at your athleticism and skill.
And preferably not seconded by someone who has never been climbing outside properly before yes Rob?!!! It took me a while longer than it would do today.
A route with something for everyone! A strong, bouldery start, a balancy slabby middle section and a layback crack to finish.
The undercut under the roof was a lot better than I expected. Good route, but not on a par with Commander Energy for example.
fun route - the start is very thuggy if tackled direct (5c?) with the upper slab and crack offering a pleasantly balancy contrast (possibly a bit soft for the grade?).
the start is hard (felt top end 5b to me). i found moving from the undercut to the top straightforward but (surprisingly)strenuous. tip the middle gear break is far bigger than it looks from the bottom.
every move is 5b. definitive E1 i thought. got to the break a used a size 2 cam in conjunction with a hand placed rock. left rock insitu for others. absolutely great route 4*
A deserved classic with sustained 5b moves interspersed with good rests and gear.
This Route has every thing! A Campus start, rock over dominated centre, and a sloper smear finish, with the physical crux at the start, and a psycological crux near the top. Just trust the sloper at the top (and maybe a toe hook for the win!). Gets better every time.
What a great route: thuggy start, balancy middle, scarey top! 5b all the way. Lovely.