Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 58
14m. The centre of the slab is climbed passing a hole to a ledge then a finish up the face above and slightly right. Good climbing that is poorly-protected. A Friend 3.5 is useful near the top.
Good technical test piece. Not much gear but the long runouts were well protected. The usual lack of handholds and footholds makes this scary in places. The middle was the crux, the finnish was much easier than it looked.
very steady all the way,good smears plenty and for hands.
Fairly straightforward padding, although every piece of gear I placed could be summed up with the word 'crap'.
Excellent climbing at a reasonable technical grade but certainly bold...so who voted for HS 4b????
Maybe JUST 4b but feels in-balance throughout so wasn't as fazed by the shit gear as have been on other VS 4bs.
RP 4 wieghted with a large hex on a VS! If you are short and you go straight up the final "slab" to the top, with out straying to either side, its easly 4C, to me thats the crux. The route is definatly 4c and because of the poor gear it can only be VS. Ok if your are cruising Smear Test and Elergy, this might be a soft touch, but to a non-grit stone VS leader thsi route would be a real shock.
I thought the top was solid 4c (but with ok gear just below your feet) and lower down 4b ish. The whole route is in fact protectable though (without a single cam!) if you look carefully. Middling VS.
A classic line and fine climbing up the centre of the buttress. Sadly there is now evidence of 'improved' cam placements in several places...