Chicken

2 Stars
Fluttery
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Master of Puppets < The Notch  |  Pullet > Piston Groove >>


12m. Climb the finger-crack in the third tower to its end then move right before stepping back left and teetering up the left-trending groove for a bold finish. The Direct is E4 6b.
FA. Tony Nicholls early 1960. FA. (Direct) Gary Gibson 1981

USER COMMENTS

5a's a bit stingy. Fine, well protected climbing upto almost the last move when you have to leave the (good) gear at your feet. Not sure this deserves a fluttery heart as even if you fluff the worrying last moves you shouldn't hit the ground, and that's from a certified chicken.
Neil Ireson - 07/Aug/06

A substantial route with continuously interesting climbing that tests a wide array of gritstone techniques. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the proximity of the gully. The definitive BMC grade of E1 5b is correct.
Fiend - 15/Oct/06

Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for E1.
Jon Stewart - 14/Sep/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 27
    hard E2 0 of 10
    E2 0 of 10
    easy E2 0 of 10
    hard E1 1 of 10
    E1 9 of 10
    easy E1 0 of 10
    hard HVS 0 of 10
    HVS 0 of 10
    easy HVS 0 of 10
    hard 5b 0 of 11
    5b 0 of 11
    easy 5b 7 of 11
    hard 5a 4 of 11
    5a 0 of 11
    easy 5a 0 of 11
    hard 4c 0 of 11
    4c 0 of 11
    easy 4c 0 of 11
    3 Stars 0 of 6
    2 Stars 6 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
    0 Stars 0 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

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