Tower Face Direct

3 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
 E2 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Flight of Ideas < Indian Summer  |  Tower Face > Tower Face Indirect >>


22m. An excellent route which is mild but bold. Climb the centre of the face (creaky) to a rest out left. A side-ways nut protects the moves up and right to the upper flake which is much easier.
FA. Peter Biven 1956

USER COMMENTS

At last! I now understand why I found Tower Face so desperate. Ooops.
Graham - 31/Jan/02

My first onsight E2 :-) Lovely climbing - not pumpy at all, but pretty scary. I found a no.9 nut useful for the crux moves, but I didn't have much confidence in it holding fall ;-/ YMMV.
Nick Smith - 23/Apr/02

I had no.10 and no.8 wallnuts kind of backwards in it and they were perfect. All good fun.
alexis perry - 28/Mar/03

Definately take some large WALNUTS for the crux! Great route and much better than the HVS.
mark s davies - 06/May/03

A great route but very soft touch for E2. The sideways placed rock 9 is solid.
Jim W - 21/May/03

Very over rated route. One scary 5b move between breaks and the rest VS, hardly classic
Ashley - 24/Oct/03

The top flake/crack is absolutely glorious!
Alex Purser - 20/Apr/04

Sorry Ashley, but if you think the lower section of this route acurately depicts VS climbing then you were either on drugs when you climbed it, or you`re trying to show off a bit! Equally inaccurate is the statement `Very overated route`
Salamanda - 24/Apr/05

I didn't really understand the description - the moves to the slot are only just above the gear and about 5a. The move above the slot is about 5b but the gear (wallnut 8 & 10) is absolutely bomber. This is really soft for E2 - probably the easiest I've done. Still it's a great route.
chris s - 18/May/05

I have to agree, very soft touch E2.
Ropeboy - 23/May/05

the rock at the crux seems bomber but i assure u it isnt any kind of outward put and that things outta there
alix - 18/Sep/05

seconded barefoot in the lovely evening warmth, lovely climbing. It does seem soft touch for E2 with all the gear that can be fiddled behind the rattly flakes, but has it ever been tested, i certainly wouldn't fancy falling off just before I got that sideways nut in at about half height.
Jon Greengrass - 26/Sep/05

Only my second E2.
I was glad someone lent me Wallnuts for the crux, cos my nuts wouldn't have fitted. Having said that, I put a no4 Friend in the break out to the left which was nice.
The flake system at the top is real fun.
richard - 02/Sep/07

Easiest E2 in the peak? I thought HVS if you trust the sideways #10 (which was muich better than I expected) or E1 without faith in it. Agree with Ashley above, too imbalanced to be 3* with most of the route no harder than VS.
Owen WG - 22/Oct/07

not sure about soft touch E2 it was a massive run out, and where did this sideways nut go?, anyway it scared me alot.
robert bridges - 24/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 112
    hard E3 0 of 38
    E3 0 of 38
    easy E3 0 of 38
    hard E2 0 of 38
    E2 9 of 38
    easy E2 20 of 38
    hard E1 9 of 38
    E1 0 of 38
    easy E1 0 of 38
    hard 5c 0 of 38
    5c 0 of 38
    easy 5c 0 of 38
    hard 5b 4 of 38
    5b 31 of 38
    easy 5b 2 of 38
    hard 5a 1 of 38
    5a 0 of 38
    easy 5a 0 of 38
    3 Stars 26 of 36
    2 Stars 9 of 36
    1 Star 1 of 36
    0 Stars 0 of 36
    Bag of ..... 0 of 36

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