Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 154
26m. Climb the Direct to good nuts then traverse right at one of two levels to a crusty flake just before the arete; the crux. Climb to the break then traverse left to gain the superb finishing flake.
A very enjoyable climb with the crux definitely trying to move to the right flake. Plain sailing after that.
The lower flakes are looking very weak. Falling on nuts stuffed behind either of them could prove destructive (and painful).
The left flake is looking grim - it 'flexed' even when I lightly loaded it with a small friend. Hence a bold and unprotected move to get to the right flake. Really pleasant layback moves on the top too.
Good value for HVS, and definitely worth 3 stars. Superb.
I thought the delicate climbing at the start was technically more difficult than the move rightwards. very cool route!
Typo in route description: presumably "climb direct" rather than "climb the direct".
an exciting move between the flakes - both of which were quite creaky (the weight of the second on the righthand flake made a wire irretrievable). The top flake however is a gigantic juggy joy.
i concur, an exciting move between the flakes (a touch bold & technical) and then it's a jug fest
The flakes were definitely very creaky, I found the move right (think after watching my second I did it the "safer" way) hard but the rest easy. Brilliant combo is t ofinish wit hmiserable miracle.
Found this harder than the Direct!
A really enjoyable climb, the crux felt quite bold and is unlike the rest of the route.
This route is getting harder as the left hand flake gets smaller. A good 18inch smaller, used to be able to hold l/h flake to bridge across to r/h flake. Should be E1 5A