Central Climb Top 50

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Central Climb Direct < B4, XS  |  Encouragement > K2 >>


An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. 1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden holds to a hard exit and a stance at the base of the main corner. 2) 4c, 14m. Climb the tough wide groove (OK it's 5a!) past a ledge (stance?) to a bigger picnic-style ledge on the left. 3) 3c, 10m. The groove rightwards, or the one out right (4b).
FA. John Laycock 1909

USER COMMENTS

One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone.
RobS - 19/Jul/02

It was down as a VD in my old Paul Nunn guidebook. I tried it to recover my nerve after leading Technical Slab, my first S, without knowing that there was no pro... Great fun!
steve gandy - 26/May/05

Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics.
Moomin Lord - 27/May/05

HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern.
Steve C - 04/Jun/05

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 96
    hard HVS 0 of 26
    HVS 0 of 26
    easy HVS 0 of 26
    hard VS 2 of 26
    VS 14 of 26
    easy VS 3 of 26
    hard HS 7 of 26
    HS 0 of 26
    easy HS 0 of 26
    hard 5a 0 of 26
    5a 0 of 26
    easy 5a 0 of 26
    hard 4c 2 of 26
    4c 14 of 26
    easy 4c 0 of 26
    hard 4b 10 of 26
    4b 0 of 26
    easy 4b 0 of 26
    3 Stars 31 of 44
    2 Stars 9 of 44
    1 Star 4 of 44
    0 Stars 0 of 44
    Bag of ..... 0 of 44

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