Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 90
An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. 1) 4b, 14m. Shin up the wide crack with difficulty and hidden holds to a hard exit and a stance at the base of the main corner. 2) 4c, 14m. Climb the tough wide groove (OK it's 5a!) past a ledge (stance?) to a bigger picnic-style ledge on the left. 3) 3c, 10m. The groove rightwards, or the one out right (4b).
One of the most entertaining routes I've climbed. First pitch=jamming joy. 2nd pitch=offwidth grunting. Last pitch=exposure city! Must do for gritstone.
It was down as a VD in my old Paul Nunn guidebook. I tried it to recover my nerve after leading Technical Slab, my first S, without knowing that there was no pro... Great fun!
Major classic!!!!!! The first pitch is definitely the crux, the awkward crack on pitch 2 is not at all hard and the route should be HS 4b in comparison to other gritstone classics.
HS for the first pitch, unless you miss some hidden holds. Severe above. The 'awkward' middle pitch is a breeze when you know how and well protected to boot. Easier than Modern.