Hen Cloud Eliminate Top 50

3 Stars
Pumpy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Second's Advance < Corinthian  |  Cool Fool > Rib Crack >>


18m. The steep cracks in the wall give a steep and superb pitch. Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a shallow nipple-eroding groove which requires a bit of 'udgery'.
FA. Joe Brown, late 1950s

USER COMMENTS

Superb climbing with some tricky moves. As I value my nipples ;) I found a double-hand jam worked nicely as an alternative at the top of the route!
Nick Smith - 14/Jul/03

Steep but steady. Noticed no nipple erosion or udgery. Fell off at start in comedy "lets pull this wire really hard to make sure it's in well" moment (it wasn't in well at all).
MeMeMe - 06/Sep/04

Probably closer to 'traditional peak HVS 5b' than E1 in character. Slight shame about being able to step off the block on the left to start.
GrahamD - 06/Sep/04

Completely agree with GrahamD, this is a another quintessential gritstone HVS 5b. Add Delstree and Bachelor's Left-hand to give your limestone E3 climbing friends a glorious day's introduction to the joys of gritstone.
Neil Ireson - 07/Aug/06

Yup, probably going down to HVS 5b in the next edition!

Chris
Chris Craggs - 10/Sep/06

Fantastic route, quite pumping.
As for the grade - I found this one definitely harder than the Slimline (also E1 5b), so... are you sure about this HVS, guys? ;)
Mike Slowik - 06/Jul/07

E bloody 0. Come on stop burying your heads in the sand.
Fiend - 27/Feb/08

Easier than Delstree. Didn't find it pumpy and where is the 5B move?
Way easier than the Mincer
HVS 5A
craig devonshire - 05/Jul/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 121
    hard E2 0 of 42
    E2 0 of 42
    easy E2 1 of 42
    hard E1 1 of 42
    E1 17 of 42
    easy E1 6 of 42
    hard HVS 17 of 42
    HVS 0 of 42
    easy HVS 0 of 42
    hard 5c 0 of 41
    5c 0 of 41
    easy 5c 0 of 41
    hard 5b 2 of 41
    5b 37 of 41
    easy 5b 0 of 41
    hard 5a 2 of 41
    5a 0 of 41
    easy 5a 0 of 41
    3 Stars 35 of 38
    2 Stars 3 of 38
    1 Star 0 of 38
    0 Stars 0 of 38
    Bag of ..... 0 of 38

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