3 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Rib Crack < Rib Chimney  |  Chiaroscuro > Bachelor's Left-hand >>

20m. The upper half of the face right of the chimney is classy and intense. Runners in the gully and a second belayer away to the right should reduce the danger on the nasty sequence to gain the front face. From a good flake (runners) make one hard move using a mono and you're almost there - then just go!
<font color="red">The line on the topo in the guide is too low. It starts from the top of the big block.</font>
FA. John Allen 1976


Blind moves from the gully onto the face feel serious. Hard reachy crux move off mono above good runners, not scary to finish but doesn't let you go early.
Jon Read - 16/Sep/02

Protection for initial very bold traverse(superb moves but not very hard)arranged at head height when standing in the gully before traversing out and second belayer down and right to prevent the swing into the gully. Then quite well protected and sustained with a hard(definitely 6b) move with gear at foot level.

An excellent route.
Tim Lowe - 20/Oct/02

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  • Access Issues for Western Grit

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 9
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