Chiaroscuro

Crimpy
Fluttery
 E6 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Rib Chimney < Caricature  |  Bachelor's Left-hand > Parallel Lines >>


24m. Follow Bachelor's Left-hand to the top of its crack then move left and teeter up the vague rib to good holds on Caricature. Climb the head-wall from right to to left (runner on the right) aiming for a final thin seam. Grade unconfirmed.
FA. Gary Gibson 1985

USER COMMENTS

The teeter up the R arete of the gully is mega serious and precarious. Worth E6 for this alone. Don't know what the top wall is like but it looks harder than anything on Caricature, and is loads bolder. No way near E5!!
Jon Read - 16/Sep/02

No way is this route E5. Its way more serious than Caricature and a fall would definitely hurt!! When linked to Caricature the initial arete would make a more logical and compelling line up the edge of this butress and would warrant hard E6 6b.
Tim Lowe - 20/Oct/02

I have heard that the upper section is E7! Ask grimer for details.
Graham Hoey - 27/Feb/03

the 2nd ascent was probably the F-A.
mark - 23/Jun/03

Who was that - Grimer?
Jon Read - 24/Jun/03

The lower arete / Caricature linkup has now been led at E5/6 6b (tech. crux still that of Caricature). Starting from Rib Chimney, with a runner low down in that route.
Jon Read - 14/Nov/05

good! Sounds like an epic of excellent climbing.
thekirkz - 19/Dec/05

Lead the whole route yesterday. E7 6b.
Jon Read - 23/Apr/06

good effort jon,1st ascent?
mark s - 10/May/06

Who knows, Mark? Should be a bit easier for the lanky, so right up your alley Mark: reachy moves way above gear and a worrying ledge. Disengage imagination and go for it!
Jon Read - 15/May/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 3
    hard E7 0 of 1
    E7 0 of 1
    easy E7 1 of 1
    hard E6 0 of 1
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    hard E5 0 of 1
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    hard 6c 0 of 1
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    hard 6b 0 of 1
    6b 1 of 1
    easy 6b 0 of 1
    hard 6a 0 of 1
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