Nuke the Midges

1 Stars
Reachy
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Scuppered < Invisible Maniac  |  Miserable Miracle > Scapa Flow >>


10m. Start up ledges then head left for 5m (a dangle for the short) to a jug. A hard mantel on this (crux) may reach the top.
FA. Al Manson 1977

USER COMMENTS

Nice little route. Probably just as hard to second as it is to lead! Mantel for the top seemed fine for 5b (I'm 5'10").
Nick Smith - 23/Apr/02

I agree, a good route but worth no more than VS 5a and I'm only 5'7.
Tom O - 31/Dec/02

More than just a one-move wonder as the first few moves are unprotected and delicate. Once you reach the break you've got a good placement which gives confidence for the crux, which is no harder than 5b. Fun E1, but it's over two quickly.
Alun Evans - 18/Apr/04

probably shouldnt be e1, gear is fine and only one not hard 5b move with good gear. being tall helps but not essential
jamesturnbull - 28/Jul/05

Its is significantly harder for the short, I am 5'6 and this felt harder than most of the E2s I have done in the Peak.
Mike Adams - 27/Aug/05

This is much much harder for the short. The traverse is very pumpy when you can't reach the footholds whereas my second strolled across. The final mantel is lovely though.
DaveF - 01/Oct/07

A desperate scrabble (5c-ish as per definitive guide) for both the short and sweaty-fingered. Much easier for the tall and normal-skinned who have no excuse. Quite a decent route for it's size, especially the last move.
Fiend - 17/Feb/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 75
    hard E2 0 of 25
    E2 0 of 25
    easy E2 0 of 25
    hard E1 2 of 25
    E1 18 of 25
    easy E1 1 of 25
    hard HVS 4 of 25
    HVS 0 of 25
    easy HVS 0 of 25
    hard 5c 0 of 26
    5c 0 of 26
    easy 5c 10 of 26
    hard 5b 2 of 26
    5b 12 of 26
    easy 5b 0 of 26
    hard 5a 2 of 26
    5a 0 of 26
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    2 Stars 5 of 24
    1 Star 18 of 24
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