Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 55
28m. Another great route. Climb the steep bulging crack left of the arete on jams to a ledge, then continue by more jamming to a good stance on The Pulpit. Step back down, traverse left to the bulging crack and storm this by more glorious jamming.
absolutely brilliant jamming
Great jams at the start which is just as well as you need to haul on them to get up the first bit. Rest of route is a little easier and it's all very pleasant.
Awesome climbing. Did it about a year ago. Lead it with a "solid" VS/HVS second who promptly fell off the start. Then watched a "solid" E1 leader pull on gear at the start. Ha ha... it's all about technique.
Oh yeah, watch out for rope drag if you do the original variation. I almost got pulled off out of the chimney.