Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 43
14m. Fist jamming at its best (not the contradiction none gritstoner's might imagine) up the bulging crack and curving flake above. Large gear is a must. Climb through the initial overhangs to an uncomfortable niche then fist jam and squirm through the bulges to a final easier section.
E1 my arse (yes, "arse"). 5b, fine, but stop pandering to the wimpiness of wall-bred monkeys - sure the crux is a thrash with gear above your head, but the rest is a pleasant romp on good jams and footholds. HVS.
Much easier once the niche is reached, and is fist jamming really required?? A 3-star 'soft touch' E1.
Definitely not E1 - even though I really wanted it to be.
E for effort. The gear is HVS and there's loads of it. It's a real fight for the tall as the niche is not that welcoming! The final flake is brilliant.
Good route whatever the grade.