Freddie's Finale

3 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Yellow Bellied Gonk < Overhanging Chimney  |  Double Take > Wimberry Overhang >>

14m. Fist jamming at its best (not the contradiction none gritstoner's might imagine) up the bulging crack and curving flake above. Large gear is a must. Climb through the initial overhangs to an uncomfortable niche then fist jam and squirm through the bulges to a final easier section.
FA. Joe Brown (& Fred Ashton) 1948


E1 my arse (yes, "arse"). 5b, fine, but stop pandering to the wimpiness of wall-bred monkeys - sure the crux is a thrash with gear above your head, but the rest is a pleasant romp on good jams and footholds. HVS.
Fiend - 22/Aug/03

Much easier once the niche is reached, and is fist jamming really required?? A 3-star 'soft touch' E1.
Nick Smith - 13/Sep/03

Definitely not E1 - even though I really wanted it to be.
Paul - 18/Sep/03

E for effort. The gear is HVS and there's loads of it. It's a real fight for the tall as the niche is not that welcoming! The final flake is brilliant.
Duncan Irving - 28/May/04

Good route whatever the grade.
No-ozone - 09/Jan/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 43
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    easy E2 1 of 16
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