Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 12
20m. From the foot (handle?) of the Trident gain and follow the curving flake out into the middle of the wall and climb this trending left to the edge of the huge overhang and an easier finish.
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Agreed. Is it the norm to preplace/clip the gear? I seem to remember it was desperate to get the gear and hard to place it...?
dunno if it is 'normal', i would think given the grade E5 6C however, that the gear ought to be preplaced at this grade...i certainly pre placed it prior to lead...
No you didn't you cheeky monkey.
There was no preplaced gear on the first ascent; I was the second. However, the crucial wire in the flake was cunningly placed from below, though Nick had checked the placement by abseil.
"crucial wire in the flake was cunningly placed from below"
It's possible to place the gear on lead by doing an extra move up Trident's groove and laybacking its left arete to reach the crack. Pro in Trident should protect these antics, until a skinny nut & TCU (if your tall) can be secured.
Three question marks Jon. Do you have any idea what you are talking about ???
Yes. Care to explain yourself?
I realise that I instigated this question and answer situation and will not subscribe to further embroilment. I do apologise to all for the inappropriate use of this space. It does, however, slightly perturbe me to read crass comments from individuals who obviously have very little knowledge of events on which they feel they are able comment.
Well, apologies if I've offended you in some way by asking questions, and relatively benign ones at that! Sheesh. Anyway, thank you for providing further details, which is what I was after in the first place. The comment in the last guide stated something like: wire preplaced with stick. Not having the good fortune to be involved with the first ascent, and reading of other routes at the same crag employing fishing rods to clip bolts(!), I had no idea how long a stick is. These sort of details matter when (a) a new guide is being prepared and (b) trying to cultivate a ground-up approach. Kevin Thaw's comments above show that you don't need a stick, short or long. I'm just after the facts; no need to be touchy.
I don't think it inappropriate use of this space. i thought this space was a forum to discuss routes?