Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 70
12m. Climb the left-hand arete of the tower. The lower section is straightforward and the crux is near the top. Despite the fact that this is reasonably well protected, it goes on for a couple of moves more than you might want it to.
Best climbed starting on the left, rather than traversing from the heather ledge the old BMC guide way. The arete totally direct is dirty, unused and looked desperate. And thence the pure upper arete....great climbing, like a grown-up version of Parallel Piped, above a nice, airy fallout zone. E3 and sweet.
Hard to assess this route for difficulty and quality, I enjoyed it and got scared but its over so quickly I'm not sure its E4 and certainly not 3 star.
I did the dirty lower arete direct on the RHS which involved a bit of a wild slap with a big Friend at my feet. The whole thing certainly felt like E4 to me. Possibly a soft one but never E3. 2.5 stars?
Dirty low down, but good smeary climbing in the upper half. Exciting, but ultimately very safe.
i think this is probably worth E4. it requires commitment on poor smears above the gear, and a cool head when you reach the break. 2.5 stars i recon, very good route.