Northern Ballet

2 Stars
 E4 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Cloudberry Wall < A Walk with Whittaker  |  Green but Sure > None >>


16m. An easy slab leads to the right-hand edge of the overhang. Step onto it and pad gingerly all the way out to the (rounded) left arete and a harrowing finish.
FA. Johnny Dawes 1984

USER COMMENTS

Nothing like this grade
Goi Ashmore - 15/Mar/02

The Moorland Gritstone grade of E3 5a seemed dangerously wrong to me. Moving up from the break on the extreme left edge of the slab/arete looked more like 5c. I moved up (on top rope) just right of the edge and even this, easier line, was 5b at the very least. If you're dying (!) to do an E3 slab, then go for Four Pebble Slab rather than attempt this!
Nigel Edley - 23/Oct/02

Can't agree. Four Pebble slab is much more insecure. I did this route on-sight in about '89 and thought it was about E2,5a. Its a lot more reverseable than 4 pebble.
goi - 11/Apr/03

I climbed this about three weeks ago. It was great fun! E3 5b (**) seems reasonable but it sure feels a little insecure!
Michael Birkby - 04/Sep/03

5b all the way. It's never strenuous - it just requires good footwork and there's a no-hands rest on the arete.
Duncan Irving - 11/Jul/05

Agree 5b slab climbing all the way, just requires delicate footwork and a cool head. The E-grade can almost pertain to how each individual climber perceives the route on the day they are doing it. I first did the route in 1991 immediatley after O/S solo of "Green But Sure" and one top rope inspection of "Northern Ballet", it felt secure and sweet 5b slab climbing. I again climbed the route in 1996 and had a freak out at 2/3 height, it certainly didn't feel like a sweet slab that day.
As for the E-grade, "XS" for me.
Excellent route, 5b **..
Phil Davies - 29/Jan/06

The whole route would benefit from a clean - very gritty at the moment making the traverse very insecure. I moved up at the extreme left end of the slab (with my left hand on the arete) and it felt hard 5c. It's easier slightly right.
alexzander89 - 15/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 24
    hard E5 0 of 9
    E5 0 of 9
    easy E5 0 of 9
    hard E4 0 of 9
    E4 0 of 9
    easy E4 2 of 9
    hard E3 7 of 9
    E3 0 of 9
    easy E3 0 of 9
    hard 5c 0 of 8
    5c 0 of 8
    easy 5c 1 of 8
    hard 5b 1 of 8
    5b 3 of 8
    easy 5b 2 of 8
    hard 5a 1 of 8
    5a 0 of 8
    easy 5a 0 of 8
    3 Stars 1 of 7
    2 Stars 3 of 7
    1 Star 1 of 7
    0 Stars 1 of 7
    Bag of ..... 1 of 7

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