Northern BalletRoute Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Adjacent Routes
16m. An easy slab leads to the right-hand edge of the overhang. Step onto it and pad gingerly all the way out to the (rounded) left arete and a harrowing finish. USER COMMENTS
Nothing like this grade
The Moorland Gritstone grade of E3 5a seemed dangerously wrong to me. Moving up from the break on the extreme left edge of the slab/arete looked more like 5c. I moved up (on top rope) just right of the edge and even this, easier line, was 5b at the very least. If you're dying (!) to do an E3 slab, then go for Four Pebble Slab rather than attempt this!
Can't agree. Four Pebble slab is much more insecure. I did this route on-sight in about '89 and thought it was about E2,5a. Its a lot more reverseable than 4 pebble.
I climbed this about three weeks ago. It was great fun! E3 5b (**) seems reasonable but it sure feels a little insecure!
5b all the way. It's never strenuous - it just requires good footwork and there's a no-hands rest on the arete.
Agree 5b slab climbing all the way, just requires delicate footwork and a cool head. The E-grade can almost pertain to how each individual climber perceives the route on the day they are doing it. I first did the route in 1991 immediatley after O/S solo of "Green But Sure" and one top rope inspection of "Northern Ballet", it felt secure and sweet 5b slab climbing. I again climbed the route in 1996 and had a freak out at 2/3 height, it certainly didn't feel like a sweet slab that day.
The whole route would benefit from a clean - very gritty at the moment making the traverse very insecure. I moved up at the extreme left end of the slab (with my left hand on the arete) and it felt hard 5c. It's easier slightly right. |