Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 41
10m. Climb past the left edge of the overlap to a break, swing right and stretch past pockets to a second break. One more hard pull gains a flake on the left and easier ground. The route is E4 6a for the short who will find placing the gear a real trial.
Well protected but still manages to feel intimidating. What appears to be the obvious way to gain the top break is tricky 6a but an easier alternative is available for the cunning.
I don't get the point about difficulty placing the gear. It's about 5b to the big break, then stand there and place gear. After that there isn't any more as I recall.
Doesn't seem that well protected, especially as the marginal cams in the top break are likely to be of a size placed by your feet.
Did Mr Gillott do the right route or is he 6ft10?