Moribund

2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Capstone Chimney < Badly Bitten  |  Wall Buttress > Direct Loss >>


10m. Climb past the left edge of the overlap to a break, swing right and stretch past pockets to a second break. One more hard pull gains a flake on the left and easier ground. The route is E4 6a for the short who will find placing the gear a real trial.
FA. Steve Bancroft 1980

USER COMMENTS

Well protected but still manages to feel intimidating. What appears to be the obvious way to gain the top break is tricky 6a but an easier alternative is available for the cunning.
Nige M - 29/Sep/03

I don't get the point about difficulty placing the gear. It's about 5b to the big break, then stand there and place gear. After that there isn't any more as I recall.
John Gillott - 06/Aug/06

Doesn't seem that well protected, especially as the marginal cams in the top break are likely to be of a size placed by your feet.
ellis - 25/Jun/08

Did Mr Gillott do the right route or is he 6ft10?
You can't see in to the gear placements at the top break, hence the fear factor .... and as Ellis says, you've probably just used up the cams you want in the first break. Great route though!
tetleybrew - 29/Jun/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 41
    hard E4 0 of 14
    E4 0 of 14
    easy E4 0 of 14
    hard E3 3 of 14
    E3 11 of 14
    easy E3 0 of 14
    hard E2 0 of 14
    E2 0 of 14
    easy E2 0 of 14
    hard 6a 0 of 15
    6a 0 of 15
    easy 6a 7 of 15
    hard 5c 7 of 15
    5c 1 of 15
    easy 5c 0 of 15
    hard 5b 0 of 15
    5b 0 of 15
    easy 5b 0 of 15
    3 Stars 2 of 12
    2 Stars 10 of 12
    1 Star 0 of 12
    0 Stars 0 of 12
    Bag of ..... 0 of 12

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.