Prudence

1 Stars
 HVS 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Castle Crack < Black Hawk  |  Black Hawk Traverse Left > Providence >>


16m. Climb the polished V-shaped groove to the glossy ledges. Step right and follow the thin crack until just below its top then pull straight up to reach ledges and a finish up the wall.
FA. Named by Chris Craggs in 1997 though it had doubtless been done for years.

USER COMMENTS

Where has Providence gone? Providence is a great route and a "worthwhile direct line" with excellent climbing. Why was it been left out in favour of this route? Theres nothing quite like favouring you own routes to make a guide look shoddy.
Dave - 04/Mar/02

Providence is a great line and feels like a more natural way to go. Not sure why it's been 'replaced'.
Brian - 27/Mar/02

Pleasant enough, still feel Providence is the better line on the slab, but this is a more logical start. I suppose both are a bit contrived really.
Chris Moor - 29/May/03

This line was certainly climbed before 1997, usually as an escape from Providence - I know two people who did this. Whatever its merits (and I go along with the general feeling that Providence is the better line) it was not first ascent - C. Craggs!
roger whetton - 11/Jun/03

I certainly climbed the start and variation finish in the 70s when we first climbed Providence. Prudence is not really a separate route and I got slated in the mags for Providencve! Such short memories?
Gary Gibson - 12/Jun/03

Strange that people would climb an unclaimed route on Stanage and not write it up! Anyway after Dave Simmonite got his hands on the manuscript he 'remembered 'he had done the FA of this in 1991, so you can stop blaming me for it.
Chris Craggs - 13/Jun/03

There are two routes here in the Stanage Guide, Providence E1 5b and Divine Providence HVS 5b. This seems to be the line of Divine Providence and Providence takes the slab/wall on the right of the crack. I suspect the Stanage guide is correct.
Al Evans - 22/Sep/03

It's worth the inclusion if only to stop this sort of confusion. I agree with CC that it's odd that people climb an unrecorded route and not bother writing it up. It's a pleasant enough route with varied climbing.
Ropeboy - 12/Mar/04

Maybe G.G. forgot because of all the other routes he was doing ?? whats wrong with not claiming routes you've climbed? I've spent 10 years thinking of a name for one i did and no one else has claimed it yet! I think both routes are worthwhile and providence is great - Quality is subjective though
michael - 25/Jul/04

i've not climbed providence (though no doubt i will), but am surprised that this hasn't always been the "main" line: get to the crack and then climb it!
Jon Stewart - 29/Jun/05

i thought this a worthwhile route. things are nice and steady until you reach the crux.
leon skeldon - 12/Jul/05

This was the last climb of the day and i had lost the mood for climbing and i was not in the zone, although i finished the climb i thouhgt i struggled a little, i will try again to see if it will be easy the next time. Paul Tomo
Paul Tomo - 19/Oct/07

I just started this route and it started raining got to the crux and there wasn't much grip for your feet so it felt well hard, good route. This has got to be the natural line i didn't even think about going straight up u just follow the crack.
robert bridges - 04/Sep/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 77
    hard E1 0 of 25
    E1 0 of 25
    easy E1 0 of 25
    hard HVS 15 of 25
    HVS 9 of 25
    easy HVS 1 of 25
    hard VS 0 of 25
    VS 0 of 25
    easy VS 0 of 25
    hard 5c 0 of 25
    5c 0 of 25
    easy 5c 0 of 25
    hard 5b 5 of 25
    5b 18 of 25
    easy 5b 1 of 25
    hard 5a 1 of 25
    5a 0 of 25
    easy 5a 0 of 25
    3 Stars 1 of 27
    2 Stars 5 of 27
    1 Star 18 of 27
    0 Stars 1 of 27
    Bag of ..... 2 of 27

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.