Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 3
The steep arete is technical as far as a band of crusty rock. Step right and climb the difficult slanting groove, and the headwall. Holds were chipped off after the first ascent but it is still climbable at the same grade. Some ancient bolts provide much-needed protection.
I would think that more holds were improved than destroyed, although some of the chipped holds pre-dated Johnny's ascent by years. A 'two foot' sling placed on the old bolt head on the left-hand side of the arete up and left of the crucial Rock 7 can be clipped en-route and offers some (body weight?) psychological back-up protection. The bolts on the upper wall seem fine for the force of a likely fall, being thick in diameter and appear not to be badly corroded. The top one needs a wire over it. Has been repeated without pre-placing the Rock 7, although my ascent wasn't on-sight.
dave musgrove on-sighted it two years ago, and made it look easy.
Possibly one of the finest routes at Millstone. Oustanding climbing and situation - it will bring a smile to your face! IMO the crux is in the upper groove.