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18m of climbing but a bit more to reach the tree. A classic sport route, up an awesome line with very manageable climbing (apart from one tiny section). Start direct (Dance Direction) to the first break (the original came in from the left here). Start pulling until you reach what 8a climbers call a rest, below the final roof. Crank this to the top. Either reverse and jump off onto the last bolt or ice pick up the grass slope to a tree belay. Cleaning the pitch is harder than the crux.
FFA. Tim Freeman 1984. Led with one rest by Dominic Lee in 1980 FA. (as Nemesis) Graham West, Barry Roberts 1959 FA. (Dance Direction) Steve Earnshaw, Mark Shearer 1990
USER COMMENTS
The original line finished with a shimmy to the right at the top. I redpointed the route with direct start and direct finish 6+ years ago. It must have seemed easier than moving right.
Paul Clark - 27/Oct/02
very bottom end 7b+. Fully retro bolted. clip last bolt step right pull up to jugs over the lip and then jump off (not as bad as it sounds). Much less hassle than grassy finish.
Mark Glaister - 15/Sep/03
Probably only 7b if the hands off kneebar rest at mid height is used!
jon fullwood - 15/Jun/04
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