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 Salar
1 starpowerfultechnicalfingery 8a+
Adjacent Routes
<< Alimoany < Honeymoon Blues  |  Lapin > Blue Eyed Myxamatoid >>

8m. Climb a groove (peg) then clip the bolt above and begin to imagine how you might climb past it. Horrendous. This routes supersedes Dapper Slapper, E3 6b, which used the same start but then traversed right to join Lapin.
FA. Malcom Taylor 1992. FA. (Dapper Slapper) Paul Mitchell 1984

USER COMMENTS
i may have made the 2nd acsent? but first put
some new stainless steel bolts in.
you still have to climb a long way to the first
bolt but miss out the rusty peg.
kristian - 28/Jun/02

Thought this was 8a now but I will accept the 8a+ grade. Did it on Saturday and found it okay. Just one big move to the break, about 6c+ to this move and then one large throw! very difficult to grade! Good climbing though and pretty popular now.
dave - 15/Jun/05

Thought pretty solid 8a. Tried it for a while with the big move but did it 2nd go with new improved sequence. turn RH hold to an undercut feet up high and its static!
Paul B - 19/Sep/05

I've heard mootings of 7c+ by people who haven't done it. I think its fair at 8a, it's a hard move even by bouldering standards. A must tick for the boulderer sport climber, and a popular 8a this year.
andi turner - 03/Nov/05

the best 8a at rubicon. bottom end of the grade though, easier than sissy and dangerous brothers
chris d - 10/Nov/05

Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8a+.....Ha Ha!(compare it to Caviar!!)

Good climbing, just very very shortlived...
north_country_boy - 03/May/07

Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee on high edge for RF with LF on sloping ramp and reach up with RH. Easier than jumping it I thought!
Ted Kingsnorth - 07/Aug/08

Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad recently.
Ted Kingsnorth - 02/Sep/08

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Voting
Total votes cast 17
8b0 of 110 of 11
Hard 8a+0 of 110 of 11
8a+0 of 110 of 11
Easy 8a+0 of 110 of 11
8a11 of 1111 of 11
3 Stars0 of 60 of 6
2 Stars0 of 60 of 6
1 Star6 of 66 of 6
0 Stars0 of 60 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 60 of 6
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