Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 6
The groove bulge and wall give a very technical route. The first ascensionist managed somehow to move direct past the final bolt (at least 8a+) but most now go left. Supersedes Dapper Slapper, which used the same start, but then traversed off rightwards to Lapin. A good first 8a for boulderers, the tall and those who can jump.
i may have made the 2nd acsent? but first put
Thought this was 8a now but I will accept the 8a+ grade. Did it on Saturday and found it okay. Just one big move to the break, about 6c+ to this move and then one large throw! very difficult to grade! Good climbing though and pretty popular now.
Thought pretty solid 8a. Tried it for a while with the big move but did it 2nd go with new improved sequence. turn RH hold to an undercut feet up high and its static!
I've heard mootings of 7c+ by people who haven't done it. I think its fair at 8a, it's a hard move even by bouldering standards. A must tick for the boulderer sport climber, and a popular 8a this year.
the best 8a at rubicon. bottom end of the grade though, easier than sissy and dangerous brothers
Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8a+.....Ha Ha!(compare it to Caviar!!)
Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee on high edge for RF with LF on sloping ramp and reach up with RH. Easier than jumping it I thought!
Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad recently.