Salar

1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
 8a

Adjacent Routes
<< Alimoany < Honeymoon Blues  |  Slapin > Slapdasher >>


The groove bulge and wall give a very technical route. The first ascensionist managed somehow to move direct past the final bolt (at least 8a+) but most now go left. Supersedes Dapper Slapper, which used the same start, but then traversed off rightwards to Lapin. A good first 8a for boulderers, the tall and those who can jump.
FA. (Direct ) Malcom Taylor 1992. FA. (DS) Paul Mitchell 1984

USER COMMENTS

i may have made the 2nd acsent? but first put
some new stainless steel bolts in.
you still have to climb a long way to the first
bolt but miss out the rusty peg.
kristian - 28/Jun/02

Thought this was 8a now but I will accept the 8a+ grade. Did it on Saturday and found it okay. Just one big move to the break, about 6c+ to this move and then one large throw! very difficult to grade! Good climbing though and pretty popular now.
dave - 15/Jun/05

Thought pretty solid 8a. Tried it for a while with the big move but did it 2nd go with new improved sequence. turn RH hold to an undercut feet up high and its static!
Paul B - 19/Sep/05

I've heard mootings of 7c+ by people who haven't done it. I think its fair at 8a, it's a hard move even by bouldering standards. A must tick for the boulderer sport climber, and a popular 8a this year.
andi turner - 03/Nov/05

the best 8a at rubicon. bottom end of the grade though, easier than sissy and dangerous brothers
chris d - 10/Nov/05

Definately at the bottom end of 8a (more like 7c+) can't believe this once got 8a+.....Ha Ha!(compare it to Caviar!!)

Good climbing, just very very shortlived...
north_country_boy - 03/May/07

Soft 8a I thought. Try getting LH pocket as a sidepull/ undercut. Deep dropknee on high edge for RF with LF on sloping ramp and reach up with RH. Easier than jumping it I thought!
Ted Kingsnorth - 07/Aug/08

Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad recently.
Ted Kingsnorth - 02/Sep/08

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    Total votes cast 6
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