Pegasus Rib

1 Stars
 E1 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Valhalla < Pegasus Wall  |  Flake Gully > Flake Chimney >>

12m. The right-hand arete of the buttress. Climb the flake-crack to the arete and finish up this on its left-hand side. Low in the grade but as sparsely protected as the grade suggests.
FA. John Allen early 1970s


This grade is spot on -- at HVS it was an accident waiting to happen -- one runner below half height, and the crux at the top.
Stefan Kruger - 17/Jan/02

Agree with the upgrade...nice climbing though.
There is a poor cam on the left on the upper section but I doubt it would hold. The finish can be protected but is a lot easier.
Steve C - 19/Jun/02

Would be pretty easy even as E0, the gear below the crux is bomber and such that there is a crux it's pretty steady. Nice climbing though, a bit fiddly to get onto the arete.
Fiend - 05/Dec/03

I put in a bomber hex behind the flake on the right of the arete (but I was a bit worried about pulling the flake off) and then a side runner at the bottom of the big crack that pegasus wall goes up which I guess would lower the grade?
Not sure where the crux was, the moves up to the top were really nice.
MeMeMe - 19/Jun/05

I also put a bomber hex behind the flake at half height, gave the flake a knock with a krab and it sounded worryingly hollow, i protected the top out with two small friends in the flared horizontal break to the left of the rib, not sure if they would of held a fall but the top out was ok if on the rib as there was a ridge to hold as you pulled over, my 1st E1.
Ady Short - 25/Jun/05

it might not be that hard but those last moves seem a long way above indifferent gear. i managed to get a micro cam (smaller end of my set) and a number 3 behind the flake (agree it sounded hollow and i wouldn't like to test it.

you need to hunt for the holds at the top out.
leon - 17/Sep/05

Steady climbing above poor gear. It's easy if you keep your cool. None of the moves are individually hard, just slightly insecure above a big run-out. My first E1 lead!
Julie Mair - 03/Jun/07

I enjoyed this route a lot. Good gear in the mid-height break, from there a tricky move round onto the front face is followed by interesting climbing without gear until very near the top. I climbed this route thinking it was HVS 5a and thought it fair for the grade.
lowersharpnose - 10/May/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 75
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