Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 24
Typical of Rubicon; short, hard and becoming harder as bits drop off. The difficulties are confined to the steep middle section where a powerful rock-over is required. There is a lower-off just below the final bulge.
essentially a three move route (with the rockover being the easiest move out the three). Getting your left hand on the good edge is the crux although the redpoint crux is the last slap to the good finger edge. A crimpy little number.
Quite a conditions dependent route for the tricky second move; go early morning for 'stickydamp' conditions or late evening for the best conditions, . Belay improved by Mark Garratt and i in April, however could do with a chain. A great first 8a.
Snapped a small spike foothold off this at the weekend - sorry, was using it for the last hard move to the sidehold/finger edge (and it was well ticked so obviously a few others were too). There are other options but the move just feels a little harder now.