Rubicon Top 50

3 Stars
Strong
 7a

Adjacent Routes
<< The Bastard < Truly Awesome  |  Zeitgeist > No Jug, No Thug >>


Excellent roof climbing up the main line of the roof, which is more of a sprint than a marathon. Scramble up to the ledge then reach out and clip a bolt or two. Take a deep breath and move into upside-down mode. The first and last pulls are the hardest. Said to be low in the grade by muscle-bound gorillas.
FFA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1979. They used a completely different set of holds at about E3. The old pegs were replaced with bolts in 1991.
FA. Jim Curtis, Ian Bretherick 1960

USER COMMENTS

Tends to stay quite greasy
Jim H - 29/May/03

a good route and not too bad for the grade.
dave - 15/Jun/05

good route- not many this steep in the peak
Scouse D - 04/Aug/05

Good route, not worth 3 stars though. Basically only one hard move which can be done in a variety of ways. Found it easier than I thought I would, sent it 3rd go, which is saying something cos I'm really not very good at overhangs.
Andrew Barker - 12/Sep/06

Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small hold in between to cross through on! Try not to use your left knee when coming over the lip, mine hurts!
stuart harmer - 28/Aug/07

Much easier to use the 'small' hold. I lost the flash when trying not to use this hold. Got it second go.
Kieran - 08/Mar/09

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  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 37
    hard 7a+ 0 of 0
    7a+ 0 of 0
    easy 7a+ 0 of 0
    hard 7a 0 of 0
    7a 0 of 0
    easy 7a 0 of 0
    hard 6c+ 0 of 0
    6c+ 0 of 0
    easy 6c+ 0 of 0
    3 Stars 17 of 37
    2 Stars 14 of 37
    1 Star 6 of 37
    0 Stars 0 of 37
    Bag of ..... 0 of 37

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