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Rubicon

7a+

Adjacent Routes
<< The Bastard < Truely Awesome | Zeitgeist > No Jug, No Thug >>

12m. Brilliant roof climbing up the main line of the roof which is more of a sprint than a long distance race. Scramble up to the ledge then reach out and clip a bolt or two. Take a deep breath and move into upside-down mode. The first and last pulls are the hardest.
FFA. Tom Proctor, Geoff Birtles 1979. They climbed a complelety different set of holds but it was probably about the same difficulty. The rotten old pegs were replaced with bolts in 1991. FAA. James Curtis, Ian Bretherick 1960

USER COMMENTS
Tends to stay quite greasy
Jim H - 29/May/03

a good route and not too bad for the grade.
dave - 15/Jun/05

good route- not many this steep in the peak
Scouse D - 04/Aug/05

Good route, not worth 3 stars though. Basically only one hard move which can be done in a variety of ways. Found it easier than I thought I would, sent it 3rd go, which is saying something cos I'm really not very good at overhangs.
Andrew Barker - 12/Sep/06

Hey now! That last move on the roof is quite big if you don't fancy the small hold in between to cross through on! Try not to use your left knee when coming over the lip, mine hurts!
stuart harmer - 28/Aug/07

Much easier to use the 'small' hold. I lost the flash when trying not to use this hold. Got it second go.
Kieran - 08/Mar/09

Voting

Total votes cast 78