Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 79
14m. Climb a tricky thin crack to a rest at a flake below the roof. Traverse away right and finish up the side wall.
A Joe Brown route for those who don't normally like them. Watch the rope drag.
A lovely route, over too quickly, perfectly protectable. The 'awkward thin crack' the guidebook refers to isn't awkward at all - if you sort your feet out, it produces a lovely move.
The crack isn't awkward and the rest isn't poor. Bit reachy though isn't it? I was ok but my poor second wasn't. Also, when leading take a moment to protect your second on the traverse by sticking a piece of gear in the middle. Quality route, spoilt only by an easy finish.
Reach the *excellent* rest under the flake via the not-awkward thin crack, then make beautiful reachy bridging moves rightwards across the wall to reach the midpoint of the traverse.
the rest is good and rock fax's description well confused me!!! the moves out are reachy (apparently -i was ok but my second couldn't make the move). a quality route that ends very fast.