Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 197
Up the flake-crack that starts 2m right of the arete, to its end. Shuffle up and left to a ledge then climb the arete. Connecting to Parasite is worth HVS 5a but is eliminate in nature.
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A lot more worhty of the grade and in my opinoin your attention than Paradise Wall. Similar to Beech Butress @ Curbar, but finer and harder.
I wasn't prepared to shuffle left along the ledge in the hope that there moight be holds round the corner, so moved diagonally up and left from the top of the flake crack. Judging from the chalk marks/polish I was far from the first to go this way! Definitely a 5a move if you're not tall enough to reach the next break before you move.
Agree both above comments....if your short you might be thinking 5a at some point on this one.
Definitely high in the VS grade - crux is 5a in my opinion, not 4c. If you're short it's definitely going to cause you a nasty surprise if you're a tentative VS leader. I'm fairly tall and could get my fingers to the rounded edge, but still undercut the break and took the high step before fully committing to the ledge.
Excellent VS route, with good commiting moves between well protected breaks. Lovely outing on a lead and not bad for a second
I found this a piece of piss personally. (Tech 4b?). Must be a height thing (I'm 6'2") A very nice route though.
I'm 5'7" so a short ass, I found a single finger pocket at full stretch which enabled me to make the move to the break from the ledge. Watch those pulleys tho. I found this easy to lead and agree the 4c technical move and VS grade as it was a one move route.
i did this two years ago and found it straight forward. after reading these comments i had another go yesterday. i'm 5'11 and from the first ledge can reach up and overbut if yer less than 5'10 it looks like you may need to use a shall side pull which is defo 5a. good route
Better and harder than paradise wall but still reasonably soft, but fair, at VS. Well-protected all the way.
sandbag for the short!
If you think this is hard for vs, then I doubt you've tried the file or roof route!
they're different styles. although i'm crap at jamming AND slabs so i'm sure i would find them both hard!
led this in 03 (see above)and thought it was worth 5a, led it again yesterday (after many HVS and E1's)and still think its worth 5a, but as so often on grit its height dependent; at 5'5 if you dont wonder off line give yourself 5a.