Paradise Wall

3 Stars
Pumpy
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Parasite < Paradise Arete  |  Milton's Meander > Comet >>


14m. Excellent. Climb the parallel cracks until they become one, then take the continuation to the top. A well protected and a popular climb for pushing the grade and honing the jamming.

USER COMMENTS

For me, the most overgraded grit VS on Eastern Grit.
Superbly protected, completely unsustained, with a short bit of 4b near the top.
Mike Whittaker - 02/Jan/02

Bit of a mystery this one. Prior to the publication of Peak Gritstone East there seemed to be a strong argument for downgrading this route to HS...and yet it has gone into the guide well up the VS graded list. Weird.
Al.Smith - 31/Mar/02

A lovely route, deserving its 3-stars, but yes, probably HS rather than VS.
Nick Smith - 16/Apr/02

Very soft for a VS and gets easier as you gain height so 3 stars is generous.
Steve C - 19/Jun/02

Definitely HS. 4b moves, numerous good rests and you can place your whole rack if you want. Nevertheless, a brilliant route on big jugs all the way. Worth the three stars.
gav p - 15/Aug/02

Like an idiot I climbed the route without carefully reading the guidebook and I assumed the right hand crack was out of bounds. It felt right for the guidebook grade.
Jeremy Waller - 04/Sep/02

Watch out at the top for some VERY dodgy wire placements for anchors. Theres a crack that looks like its been used for lots of 'em where half of it wobbles by about 2-3"! More secure stuff is further back. Over graded, over starred, but still nice, if not quite paradise.
D Berry - 08/Jun/03

Think its worth the 3 stars but dont know about the 4c poss 4b.
Shaun Walby - 28/Sep/03

probably about the right grade, just low for it. defo 3 stars though, was easy but execellent fun
james turnbull - 08/Mar/04

not that hard but so what, its fun
Leon Skeldon - 09/Apr/04

A good route. Don't think HS would include a crux on a near vertical crack. The big jutting out handhold/foothold at the base of the crack is also a bit wobbly. It is a soft touch at VS 4c, but I think it deserves this grade; personally thought the initial section and crux was harder/less easy than anything on, say for example, Mississippi Butress Direct and Heather Wall. Good route for your first VS lead methinks.
James McN - 11/Oct/04

Would make an excellent first VS. Easy to place protection all the way. Low in the grade but steep enough to warrant it. Well worth doing.
Lizard - 27/Jun/05

do this route if you are just starting on vs or it's a sunny sunday and you just want to cruise up and use ever bit of gear you own soft at vs but 3 star all the way
chris elfleet - 30/Oct/05

Beautiful! (but 4c is a bit OTT)
John Hutch - 26/Apr/07

It was one of my first VSs - but I'm not going to argue with HS. Absolutely 3* though
Ben Blaukopf - 04/Jun/07

A perfect HS 4b.
mark20 - 20/Jul/08

First climb on grit for a long time. Nice little route - HS 4B is spot on.
Mark Reed - 17/May/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 170
    hard VS 0 of 23
    VS 0 of 23
    easy VS 7 of 23
    hard HS 2 of 23
    HS 12 of 23
    easy HS 2 of 23
    hard0 of 23
    0 of 23
    easy0 of 23
    hard 4c 0 of 23
    4c 0 of 23
    easy 4c 2 of 23
    hard 4b 9 of 23
    4b 9 of 23
    easy 4b 2 of 23
    hard 4a 1 of 23
    4a 0 of 23
    easy 4a 0 of 23
    3 Stars 75 of 124
    2 Stars 43 of 124
    1 Star 6 of 124
    0 Stars 0 of 124
    Bag of ..... 0 of 124

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