Comus

1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
 E4 6a

Adjacent Routes
<< Milton's Meander < Comet  |  Paradise Crack > Sand Gully >>


14m. The right-hand line of pockets in the face is bold to start involving fierce fingery climbing. The upper section is a little easier and much safer. Tiny cams might be found of use.
FA. Martin Berzins 1979

USER COMMENTS

You can protect the crux with a resonable friend 0 in one of the pockets - this reduces the
'Desmond' potential mentioned in the '89 guide. Good climbing and well protected in the
upper part.
Nige M - 26/Sep/02

Not sure how good a friend in the pocket would be.
On the other hand, while the desmond ain't no fun I walked away from it (with a bouldering pad) and I guess you'd have to be pretty unlucky to be hurt badly if you use a pad.
Iain - 23/Sep/04

friend zero in pocket looks ok, but ripped when i fell on it. also it blocks the best foothold for the crux reach. the fall onto a pad is ok, but high enough to be scary. good route.
nic mullin - 13/Dec/04

Alien is much better holds a fall, was tested.
Ropeboy - 14/Dec/04

Placed 2 equalized Camalots C3 (red/yellow) in the pocket left of the red line in the guidebook. Just make sure to place a directional friend in the lower break to asure the rope is pulled straight down in stead of out. This will hold a fall. Nice route to on-sight as its over after the first few metres. Good moves all the way to the top!
harald swen - 16/Jun/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

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