Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 40
14m. The wide crack hidden behind the holly is approached from the right (ouch) and leads to a wide, sustained and tricky finish. Big gear will be needed to back up the loose chockstones.
The crappy loose looking ones at the back of the crack. This is down as diff in the stanage topo and I thought it felt a little hard, but not severe and certainly not 4a anywhere on the route.
Found one sling round a chockstone, and that was it, right next to a ledge I'd hit in any case if I fell off. If the holly wasn't there it would rate higher though...
Bit unprotected at HVDiff me thinks - unless you have a collection of huge Cams/ Hexs of course
Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads of gear on it and no real problems, although having said that it was a bit of a thrutch for him (looking at the state of his knees after I think he'll not wear shorts on grit again).