Paradise Crack

2 Stars
Graunchy
 HVD 4a

Adjacent Routes
<< Comet < Comus  |  Sand Gully > Silica >>


14m. The wide crack hidden behind the holly is approached from the right (ouch) and leads to a wide, sustained and tricky finish. Big gear will be needed to back up the loose chockstones.

USER COMMENTS

What chock-stones???
Dunc. - 21/Oct/02

The crappy loose looking ones at the back of the crack. This is down as diff in the stanage topo and I thought it felt a little hard, but not severe and certainly not 4a anywhere on the route.
MattG - 21/Oct/02

Found one sling round a chockstone, and that was it, right next to a ledge I'd hit in any case if I fell off. If the holly wasn't there it would rate higher though...
Ben Blaukopf - 04/Jun/07

Bit unprotected at HVDiff me thinks - unless you have a collection of huge Cams/ Hexs of course
Tim M - 26/Jul/07

Mates first lead on grit (and only his second climb on the stuff). There's loads of gear on it and no real problems, although having said that it was a bit of a thrutch for him (looking at the state of his knees after I think he'll not wear shorts on grit again).
Mark Reed - 07/Jun/11

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 40
    hard0 of 5
    0 of 5
    easy4 of 5
    hard HVD 1 of 5
    HVD 0 of 5
    easy HVD 0 of 5
    hard VD 0 of 5
    VD 0 of 5
    easy VD 0 of 5
    hard 4b 0 of 18
    4b 0 of 18
    easy 4b 0 of 18
    hard 4a 2 of 18
    4a 9 of 18
    easy 4a 3 of 18
    hard 3c 4 of 18
    3c 0 of 18
    easy 3c 0 of 18
    3 Stars 0 of 17
    2 Stars 9 of 17
    1 Star 3 of 17
    0 Stars 5 of 17
    Bag of ..... 0 of 17

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