Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 16
18m. The curving fissure that bounds the left side of the buttress is novel. The start is awkward but the wide leaning section provides the crux and is best tackled lying on your back! Reckoned to be harder than Billiard Buttress by some!
A must do route if you like that sort of thing (and most people don't!) Only given VDiff in previous guides - I wouldn't have solo'd it if it had been down as HS 4c!
A true grit Vdiff, as in very difficult, but no more than that.
tee hee what a giggle of a route, quality thrutching on your back or desperate swimming on your front
This route is given VS 4c in the new BMC Stanage guide, and in my opinion, it deserves it. Hard Severe my arse! Would you expect to have to make unprotected 4c moves at Hard Severe? Would you b*llucks! Interesting and enjoyable climbing though if you DON'T climb it in the traditional style, i.e. laybacking the final flake rather than laying down underneath it and thrutching like hell.
ying dow nis definitely not the way to do it IMO, I nearly fell out seconding it! Would have been much easier just to stand up and walk up the slab, but I wanted to practice some "treaditional" techniques - notably humping the rock and grunting and laughing and slipping downwards all at once. Never vdiff, as James Mcn says, bold for the first 5-6 metres.
Puzzling, but the absurd crawling bit is a giggle, as the earlier comment says.