Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 163
A bold line up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall 3m right of the arete and head right to a flange. Mantelshelf to reach the deep horizontal break then move left and head up the delicate arete and the pleasant slab above.
Not harder than 5a, but at the necky end of HVS
Necky to the big break and first gear with one 5a move, then much easier and delightfully exposed tried placing gear in the shallow breaks and pockets... it all fell out
great moves to get the break ,and a cool head on the arete .an exellent route.
Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good
Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top.
the bottom section gets you thinking and sweating a little til you get to the mid point & get gear in. then keep a kewl head moving-up the arete (the crux?). great route.
If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful).
I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer.