Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 207
A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right for 3m. Step up and right to reach the blunt arete. Balance up to reach a large shallow pocket and use this to gain a scoop and easier rock trending left. Originally led with a single chockstone runner in the big break.
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Fabulous climbing on good holds, but little or no gear towards the top. Never sustained, although getting off the ground is particularly hard if you are short (apparently). Low in the grade.
Care needed with the flake after the crux -- it's not going to be there too much longer.
Good route - a fair bit harder than Billiard Buttress so still E1. That flake should be OK cos you don't have to touch it.
Care IS needed with the flake near the top because you DO have to use it, unless you finnish off left which seems like a bit of a cheat. It's also the only place for gear between the friend in the break below the pocket and the top.
Since at the top you are on "easier rock" its largely irrelevent where you go, you might as well take the line of weakness and avoid the flake - so you really only have to use the flake if you have a deathwish!
Wish I'd seen these comments before i did it, as I jammed a wire behind that flake and my second cursed my stupidity. Great route though. Nice and exposed for the upper crux too.
I too wish I'd read the comments. I agree you don't need the flake I touched it and then quickly found an alternate hold. It does mean that you have a long, easy run to the top without gear though.
Great route. I actually found the start nice and easy. But that crux is nicely exposed and thrilling. I think someone should kick the flake off before it does damage. Thankfully you dont need it!
2nded this last week and I really struggled being short at the pocket. Friends in the crack below the pocket essential with good positioning.
fairly straightforward at e1 5b & the runouts are never that great. the biggest problem i found is the need to trust and commit at the crux. it's a nice route but felt more hvs 5a than e1 5b
I found the crux on lead to be the start which felt very bold while mantling. The move up the arete felt tricker but very safe with good friernds by your feet. Any protection above this is unnecessary - the climbing is much easier. Didnt even notice the discussed flake unless you mean the one right on the arete by the friends - which I didnt use at all.
This was my first extreme lead in 1978 - before friends, the only protection then was a large hex in the first break. Felt run out on the one piece of gear!
My 2nd E1, It is an amazing route, one of the best on stanage. I'd say there where two hard moves the first is not very protected and would probably hit the ground but your not two far from it so is protected with a mat. The second hard move is reaching for the pocket and is the crux, which is well protected. I found it fairly easy and it is probably easier than some HVS such as flying buttress direct and congo corner.
Lovely. Though I remember hearing there was a wrong hand to get the essential pocket with and couldn't quite remember which one on lead.