Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 135
12m. A traditional grovel which has been upgraded by popular demand. Either sprint up the right-slanting layback, then swing right to the base of the wider section; or take the jamming crack in the centre of the face to the same place - better. Improvise a way up the wide bit then step left for the easiest finish.
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A real struggle that is not exactly bomproof protected. Deserves an upgrade.
I sincerely doubt that many 'VS leaders' will get up this one. Dicey jams, not overly protectable with anything less than specialist big-crack gear and pretty butch and sustained (right-hand variation). Nice, if you like that sort of thing.
Well protected with big friends just keep walking them up the cracks as you go, bomber hand and fist jams especially on right hand variation, but the steepness gets to you and is quite strenuos. Namenolos was grades easier physically!
Left hand variant gives excellent climbing, awkward to gain the main crack above and then sustained. No problems to protect with big cams but strenous.
found it hard for the grade and very strenny.
Hard? Yes; Hard Very Severe? No. Exposed without a Friend 4 though.
How does a certain piece of gear (except putting a bag over your head) make a route more or less exposed?
Exposed without a friend 4 - as in without one you can probably hit the floor from the crux!
I wish I'd read these comments before trying the route, so I could have done something else instead!
NOT 2 stars. Nowhere near as nice as it looks. Namenlos is infinitely better and easier as well.
Left hand variant can be protected without big gear, but very strenuous and sustained, seemed HVS, 5a to me.
this is hard. it's pretty sustained but with just the right rest (bit of) points for placing gear. we started on the right side and i didn't feel happy til i was at the top. a proper hard vs. if you can do this & you don't get fazed by big runouts you can do its neighbour, namenloss.
What a bitch struggle!
Great route!! The protection is fine, you only need one friend 4 for the traverse (r.h variation) and a couple of bomber wires will sort out the rest. The top crack was a little more "off width" than I'd expected, which just made it more enjoyable. Vs, but not for vs slab climbers mind you.
much easier that its reputation would suggest. good near-hands-off rest at the base of the upper crack. not really strenuous if you play your cards right.
Managed to get a dubious looking hex in the crack to protect the crux, fell on it 2 or 3 times, seemed to hold. Felt like HVS to me.
Not a particularly nice route and a bit of a grovel as the description states. Don't try to do this if it's rained the night before like I did. There'll be a small waterfall running down the crux moves.
I like to think I'm a reasonable VS/HVS leader (on Lakeland rock) but this was totally beyond me. I found it very strenuous and only managed to get up because I borrowed 3 large Friends and rested on each one! mike
The BMC guide describes it as 'a get stuck in route'. I did and it went smoothly. Glad I hadn't tried it earlier in the day when feeling more cautious. Do a couple of 'traditional' vdiffs first to get the grit fire going.
Worth doing. Strenuous placing gear (LH start) but the climbing is nice.