Womanless Wall

2 Stars
 VS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Obyoyo < The Trouble with Women is....  |  Stuck > Unstuck >>


18m. Trend left up the lower wall to a large flake, move up to some big rounded pockets the swing right to a final crack.
FA. Tony Howard 1958

USER COMMENTS

Could do with a 'fluttery heart' symbol, protection is well below your feet for the crux. I thought this high in the grade for VS 4c, no idea where the '4b' comes from. An excellent route, varied and sustained.
Simon Caldwell - 26/Apr/04

A bit bold for a time, definitely 4c
Simon Duncan - 22/May/04

There's no particular move that's worth 4c but it's sustained at 4b from when you cut loose off the arete. Keep your eyes open and just keep telling yourself that the holds will appear!
Duncan Irving - 28/May/04

The climb is VS 4b, but I think there is some confusion on which level to traverse after reaching the pockets. The line in the rockfax topo looks to be too high, the wall should be traversed with your hands at the same level as the pockets, there has been some accidents with people traversing at a higher level feet level with the pockets.
Nice climbing worth doing on a visit.
craig h - 08/Jun/04

I traversed with my hands at that level and reckon it's definitely 4c. My partner, seconding, did it as a foot traverse and it's more like 5a/b, but you'd have excellent gear at your feet so a fall shouldn't be too serious even then.
Simon Caldwell - 08/Jun/04

Nice route, nice moves/semi-hand traverse leaving large pockets towards finishing crack. Good position and delightfully exposed. Good solo!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05

Very enjoyable 4b climbing all the way, superb position with good gear...excellent.
Shaun Walby - 12/Jun/05

There is a large, loose horizontal flake at the start of the route. Avoid pulling outwards on it or placing gear behind it. It would hurt your toes if it was to drop.
craig h - 01/Jul/05

Second what craig has said......i felt my second drop at the start, the block comes out on you like a draw opening, he pushed it back and fell onto the ropes.
Shaun Walby - 28/Jul/05

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 43
    hard HVS 0 of 14
    HVS 0 of 14
    easy HVS 2 of 14
    hard VS 5 of 14
    VS 6 of 14
    easy VS 1 of 14
    hard HS 0 of 14
    HS 0 of 14
    easy HS 0 of 14
    hard 4c 0 of 15
    4c 0 of 15
    easy 4c 9 of 15
    hard 4b 2 of 15
    4b 4 of 15
    easy 4b 0 of 15
    hard 4a 0 of 15
    4a 0 of 15
    easy 4a 0 of 15
    3 Stars 10 of 14
    2 Stars 4 of 14
    1 Star 0 of 14
    0 Stars 0 of 14
    Bag of ..... 0 of 14

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